- Posted by Shawn Steiman
- Sun, 06/20/2010 - 18:32
From your cup to their farm
For the last few years, some roasters have been actively establishing relationships with farmers. These direct trade relationships bypass many parties that typically exist between the farmer and roaster, thereby bringing the roaster closer to a coffee’s origin (think Slow Food). Ideally, the farmer gets more money for the coffee as well as active feedback on quality from the buyer. Coffee drinkers seem to be excited about this type of trading scheme and are supporting it with gusto. Unfortunately, most coffee drinkers don’t get to have the direct relationship to the farmer but must live vicariously through the roaster.

In the last few weeks, fellow RoastE blogger biscotti has interviewed and blogged about two Hawai‘i coffee farms (Kona Earth and Rusty’s Hawaiian; nice work, biscotti!). While he has conducted some other interviews, none have been with farmers. Fortuitously, he has discovered an amazing reality about direct relationships with Hawai‘i farmers: they’re easy!
Most importantly, they’re easy for any person, roaster or not, to establish and maintain. I don’t know any farmer in Hawai‘i that doesn’t have a mailbox, telephone, and internet connection. Any consumer who is interested in having a direct relationship with a coffee farmer can do so from the comfort of their own home, no roaster needed!
Moreover, farmers want those relationships. They are proud of their work and their coffee and they love to talk about it. Trust me, they’ll be very excited to hear from you.
I encourage you to instigate a relationship with a Hawai‘i coffee farmer. Start by drinking their coffee. Then, contact them and share your opinion. While you’re at it, ask a few questions about their life or their farming. I promise, when you drink their coffee again, you’ll discover it to be a very different experience.
Most of us are disconnected from agriculture and food production. We have little idea about the effort and resources necessary to produce our food. Frighteningly, we have little sense of what it really costs to produce anything we put in our mouths (retail prices don’t always reflect actual costs, unfortunately). It isn’t until you begin talking with a food producer that all of this information coalesces into anything meaningful.
By getting in touch with a Hawai‘i coffee farm, you’ll make coffee personal. You’ll understand the journey coffee takes from its origin to your cup. You’ll learn things about varieties, processing, and roasting- but you can get all that from reading books. The value of having a relationship with the farmer is that you’ll learn about the humanity embedded in each cup you drink.
Sounds nice, doesn’t it?










REVIEWS & COMMENTS
WHILE THE PRICE OF THE
intrepid510 | Wed, 10/26/2011 - 01:23While the price of the coffee is a little more, it really is the only coffee that we can have a relationship like this and thanks for the encouragement.
INSPIRED
Wakeknot | Sun, 10/02/2011 - 20:21You make me want to search out some farmers and get to know them. I love my local farmers, but it never crossed my mind that farmers in Hawaii would be interested in getting in touch with someone this far away.
RELATIONSHIP COFFEE
EricBNC | Mon, 09/05/2011 - 19:15Relationship coffee with the customer and the grower instead of the roaster and the grower - neat!
NICE POST!
Stephanie Sagle | Thu, 07/29/2010 - 14:45Love it! You are so right, every farmer has a story and once you hear it it does start to impact your taste and opinion of their product.
Thanks for getting to know us and our story. We look forward to working with you in the future, you are an invaluable asset to the growth of our farms.
AGREED! JUST BACK FROM LEHUULA FARMS IN KONA...
John Maurer | Mon, 07/12/2010 - 18:53Having just spent a couple nights on a cottage at Lehuula Farms in Kona (http://www.lehuulafarms.com), I can fully attest to Shawn's posting. Seeing all the work, intelligence, and attention to detail that goes into a cup of coffee will change your drinking experience (in a good way) forever!
KNOW THE GROWER
Gazy | Tue, 06/29/2010 - 18:03Great writing Shawn. So far in my blog on ROASTE I have been portraying some of the coffee growers in Cundinamarca (Colombia). (http://www.roaste.com/CafeRoaste/CoffeeBlogs/Gazy). There are several market niches in the coffee world and all of us involved in this portal, all of us dealing with specialty coffees (growers, reviewers, roasters, consumers) are in a very special niche and -of course- pretty far from the general coffee-guzzling population.
Thus, your invitation to contact growers is well targeted here, as well as my presentations depicting how the growers live, as you say, trying to make ends meet, struggling against weather, bugs and -especially- market sharks. As I wrote in my last post: "My aim is to expose the names and lives of the persons who dedicate their lives to coffee, not as a commodity but as the fragrant fruit of their loving work." Pretty much like what your are writing about the Hawaiian growers.
I am glad to have found someone who shares my views.