- Posted by Scott Lush
- Wed, 07/29/2009 - 13:21
Italian Espresso vs. American Espresso
Why does espresso taste different in Italy than in the US?
Is it the scenic countryside, the renaissance artwork, the legacy of the Medicis.. um, no.
It's because Italians prefer a totally different taste in their espresso than do Americans. And it shows up in the coffee, according to top roasters and travelers that I've spoken with.
You see, Italians have always preferred an ashy charred burnt taste to their espresso. They want it to taste like diesel fuel. They want to douse it with sugar cubes. They want it to put hair on their chest. Americans on the other hand love smoothness, mildness, and a balanced espresso drink, preferably where they can add some milk and sugar, not too much, thank you.
Therefore Italian espressos served in Italy use robusta beans for up to 20% of the coffee. That is the cheaper bean that imparts a charred ashy taste. Italians think it's god-sent, Americans think it's like biting into mud. Americans prefer all Arabica beans that are more expensive and milder. Also Italians are okay with cheap beans from Brazil, India and Vietnam that give a dark ashy taste. Those countries have low altitude and at least in Brazil and India there is a lot of grassland -- ideal breeding grounds for unremarkable coffee. (You need mountains, valleys, hills, volcanic soil, richness to make a rich coffee).
Americans on the other hand want a milder delicate flavor so a wider mix of high quality beans from Africa, Indonesia and the Americas are used. Higher quality beans too.
This difference in tastes has given me some weird interactions with Italian roasters.
Typically at a trade show an Italian roaster will insist that his Italian espresso is fabulous, with the authentic taste of Italy that you can't get anywhere else. I agree with him / her that you can't get the taste like that anywhere in the US -- because Americans want a different taste than theirs. The Italian roasters just don't get it. They can't understand why someone would prefer a different taste. They keep pushing their coffees and I keep telling them that my customers may be unhappy with the ashy heap of soot they'll get.
Sample some of our espressos. You'll see how delicate the flavors are. That's because they're ideal for American tastes. Soon we'll have some of these Italian roasters' coffees and you'll be able to compare. But you've been warned!
Try...
Paradise Roaster's terrific and top-rated Espresso Classico
In Sonoma Valley, Ecco Caffe's Dark Roast Espresso Blend was awarded top price in 2007 by CoffeeGeek versus Italian espressos
In Seattle, Cafe D'Arte has won several awards for its Capri Espresso Blend including best espresso in Seattle ina reader's poll.
Latitude 32.5's Espresso Havana is a great coffee from an up-and-coming roaster with a national reputation.
Photo credit: PSD on Flickr












REVIEWS & COMMENTS
MISLEADING?
Son Ton | Sat, 01/21/2012 - 13:16I think the generalization is misleading; definitely not all italian coffee are ashy and bad tasting. In fact, I think italian on average make better espresso than american (just think that about all the espresso machines made on earth are italian, obviously exception such as Slayer or synesso)
THE FLAVOR DIFFERENCE IS
intrepid510 | Thu, 12/01/2011 - 16:57The flavor difference is there and there is also the fresh factor at least getting here.
ITALIANS
jbviau | Thu, 11/10/2011 - 13:33We all think our coffee is the best, no? ;)
SOME TRUTH
Wakeknot | Fri, 09/23/2011 - 19:05There is, of course, some truth in this and some generalizations. As pointed out below espresso is totally different in Southern Italy than Northern, and the US does beat Italy in most WBC's, but I think the average cup in Italy is still better than the average one here - it is just our best that tops their best and in many towns you can't get the best the US has to offer. Lucky thing there are online vendors like Roaste to fix that.
SOMETIMES I LIKE THE BITE
EricBNC | Mon, 09/05/2011 - 17:05Sometimes I like the bite I get from certain espresso roasts but usually I use a single origin alone or blended in with some good beans from Brazil.
LAVAZZA ESPRESSO IS SO LIGHT
espressom | Mon, 05/30/2011 - 19:01Lavazza espresso is so light fit for American type espresso fans.
YOU SOUND LIKE A TYPICAL TEENAGER TALKING TO HIS PARENTS.
george3131 | Fri, 02/25/2011 - 14:33You think you know it all. What could the Italian's know about espresso? Have you ever stood at the bar in an Italian coffee bar and had an espresso? I only wish I could find someone locally to serve such bad coffee.
ARE YOU SERIOUS?!
Big Richard | Mon, 02/15/2010 - 14:43I think you seriously switched cups when you did your taste test. Your descriptions were spot on if you switched the regions in your review. The "West Coast" style is the epitome of burnt and smoky. The "Italian" style is all about smooth sweetness. Much better research should have been done. Or at least a better job on the Editors part.
THAT'S TRUE TO NO WONDER I
Harold | Fri, 07/31/2009 - 17:22that's true to no wonder i never feel like i've had enough caffeine when im there
20 OUNCE DRINKS - NO SUCH THING IN ITALY , NOT EVEN CLOSE.
Eyal Rosen | Fri, 07/31/2009 - 15:36But you are right about the strict translation though. I stand corrected.
FIRST OF ALL VENTI IS
Harold | Fri, 07/31/2009 - 15:08first of all Venti IS italian for twenty (a large coffee is 20 ounces) and second of all this article is bull. I find the "diesel fuel" taste much more common in America and smooth flavorful espresso more common in italy and i drank plenty in both countries
WELL, ERRR, UHHH, BUT IN MY EXPERIENCE...
swag | Wed, 07/29/2009 - 19:42Well, I have to give you credit for laying something out there. But you may as well have just said that Italians are superstitious and Americans are obese.
Some generalizations are useful, others are not.
PUT ON YOUR BOXING GLOVES...
Eyal Rosen | Wed, 07/29/2009 - 14:20Mmm, southern Italy, maybe. Northern Italy is a different story altogether. Definitely great espresso CAN be found in the U.S., but your average espresso joint is still way way down on my quality scale. in northern Italy on the other hand, it's almost impossible to get bad espresso, at least as long as you're in a big city.
Same goes for cappuccinos et al. The American style has way too much sugar and milk in it (did anyone say Venti?? Now that’s actually NOT an Italian word, but a Starbucks invention, to fit the local taste…). Italian milk based drink wins hands down. They are small and tasty.
And of course, if you ever want to get an Italian started, just mention that American espresso (or pizza!) is better…then again, you probably shouldn’t…
So I agree great coffee can be found here, but you really need to dig to find it (or bookmark ROASTe…)